Ancient Spirits

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1111-pouring-scotchWhile bartenders have discovered new ways to use scotch, the beverage is still known as a simple, elegant sipping spirit

Scotch, known as a man’s-man beverage, has become more popular among different demographics — namely women and young people — in recent years, but it hasn’t exactly seen a renaissance. While it can be the unexpected centrepiece in more adventurous cocktails, it remains a whisky beverage best enjoyed neat or on the rocks. It’s a staple because it’s a classic.

“Scotch has always had that image of prestige in drinking society,” says Brad Gubbins, an instructor at the Toronto Institute of Bartending and bartender at the exclusive, members-only Toronto Temperance Society (TTS). “People see it as a higher-end product because of the quality and craftsmanship. But it’s also seen as an older person’s drink, so it’s had its highs and lows.”

Scotch — or whisky barrelled, distilled and produced in Scotland — has no shortage of varieties. For the curious and uninitiated, Gubbins says blended spirits such as the Johnnie Walker Reds and Blacks, Dewers, J&B Rare and Te Bheags, are ideal, packing less flavour and more delicacy. These same spirits also work better in mixed cocktails, whereas single malts, such as the Macallan, Aberlour and Highland Park, tend to be sipped au natural by scotch purists. “Single-malt drinkers usually know a little bit more about their beverage, as they’re typically more expensive,” says Gubbins, referring to single malts that can cost from $10 to more than $100 a glass.

As for one noticeable shift in scotch consumption, Gubbins and Keith Trusler, bar manager and whisky program director at Vancouver’s Blue Water Café and Raw Bar, say that, while the beverage’s popularity hasn’t risen or dropped sharply, the typical scotch drinker is changing as diners become more open to different flavours, much like they are in the culinary world. “I am seeing a new profile of guest,” says Trusler. “There are still a lot of older men who like what they like, but with bartenders and industry people trying more things with the spirit, we’re seeing more younger people and women. It’s not an old man’s drink anymore.”

“Scotch has always had that image of prestige in drinking society. People see it as a higher-end product because of the quality and craftsmanship. But it’s also seen as an older person’s drink, so it’s had its highs and lows.”

The spirit is certainly diversifying with more cocktails being thrown into the mix to appease curious drinkers. “We get some requests for the Blood and Sand [made with scotch, vermouth, cherry brandy and orange juice] and the Penicillin [made with Laphroaig, scotch, lemon juice, honey-ginger syrup and candied ginger], which isn’t on the menu,” says Oliver Stern, TTS manager and bartender. “We have more scotch in our cocktails than before, and those cocktails are popular on cigar nights. But people stick with more [plain] single malts for the most part.”

And, despite innovative bartenders introducing new cocktails, which are slowly raising the drink’s profile among new consumers, Gubbins doesn’t expect the appeal to be embraced by the cosmopolitan crowd. “If [a drinker] prefers sweeter vodka mixes, it might be too far out of their comfort zone.”

That said, both Gubbins and Trusler agree that, in the quickly evolving cocktail world, more diners are excited to try new things, and more bartenders are willing to play with unorthodox ingredients. “I relate it to food,” says Gubbins. “We can take a traditional ingredient [like scotch], have fun with it and change the fabric of the old norm.”

What’s Next?

While traditional and newer scotch cocktails are appearing on bar menus, some spirits are being made and distilled a little differently. “Now, they’re releasing cask-strength whisky,” says Gubbins. “It has less water, so the alcohol content is between 54 and 59 per cent. It allows for more vibrant flavour and a more potent aroma.”

Meanwhile, Scottish producers are aging scotch in rum or port barrels, which is giving the beverage a different colour and flavour than spirits aged in traditional bourbon or sherry barrels.

“Scotch has always had that image of prestige in drinking society. People see it as a higher-end product because of the quality and craftsmanship. But it’s also seen as an older person’s drink, so it’s had its highs and lows.”

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