NEW YORK — Chefs are warming up to food coated with ash, reports The Wall Street Journal.
Boston chef Frank McClelland of L’sEspalier has been grilling vegetables, collecting ashes and serving it in his tasting menus; he’s also thinking of packaging the product for sale. Meanwhile, other chefs are experimenting with ash made from onions and garlic stalks.
However, not all chefs are on board. “We have evolved away from laying the meat on the fire. That’s why we built grills,” Ray Lampe, a cookbook author, was quoted as saying by The Wall Street Journal.
The trend is attributed to Denmark’s Rene Redzepi, chef at Noma restaurant, which has the top ranking on “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list. He featured a recipe for boiled leeks rolled in hay ashes in his cookbook, Noma.