Hôtel La Ferme in Baie-Saint Paul, a small town in the heart of Quebec’s Charlevoix region, is taking local food to a new level.
“The Farm,” as it translates in English, grows crops on roughly two acres of the hotel’s property. During harvest, two full-time gardeners tend to approximately 100 varieties of vegetables, fruit, edible flowers, herbs and beans. The fresh bounty supplies the hotel’s three foodservice operations under the direction of David Forbes (pictured), executive chef.
“The local people and hotel guests see David go out [to the crops] and bring his stuff back to the kitchen,” says Richard Germain, GM, Hôtel La Ferme. “If you bought blueberries from Chile, it’s just not the same as having them grown just a few steps from your place.”
Hôtel La Ferme is the brainchild of Daniel Gauthier, who co-founded Cirque de Soleil in 1984. He left Cirque in 2000 and two years later bought a ski area, Le Massif de Charlevoix. His vision was to transform the area into a four-season destination, complete with a train linking the ski resort, Quebec City and Baie-Saint Paul. In 2012, Gauthier opened the 145-room Hôtel La Ferme. The property, which consists of five pavilions, was built on land that was once a farm.
The hotel’s food showcases the region’s rich offering. “The idea is to say, ‘this is who we are, this is what our land is giving us, and this is how we cook it,’” says Forbes. “We take products from around the farm and try to make simple, regional food that people can relate to.”
At Les Labours, the hotel’s flagship restaurant, the menu spotlights local vegetables, fish and meats. Wild mushroom salad, for example, is made with the hotel’s garden vegetables; and local lamb is accompanied by garden-fresh cabbage, tomatoes and gnocchi. “It’s always fun to see someone relate to the food they’re eating, to know it’s coming from just around the window,” says Forbes. “And, it’s a dream for every cook to use things that are so close.”
At the more casual Le Bercail, the menu is composed of gratins, tartars, pizzas, charcuteries, salads and cheeses. And Café du Marché features soups, sandwiches, duck liver pâté and terroir cheeses.
And, although the ingredients are fresh, growing food means it’s ready when it’s ready. So if there’s a wedding, for example, the hotel can’t promise guests Swiss chard from the garden. The property’s northern latitude also means harvest season is only three months out of the year. “The seasonality of our climate makes it a little harder,” says Forbes. “And then I have to buy products from the States, like anyone.”
But, the garden is worth it. “The reaction of the hotel guests is quite amazing,”
affirms Germain.
