Newfoundland Calling

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Nothing appeals to Jeremy Charles quite like the “salty” green grass of home.

Home has special meaning for everyone. For well-travelled chef Jeremy Charles, his native St. John’s, N.L., means family, the great outdoors and exquisite ingredients.

But 33-year-old Charles, executive chef and co-owner of Raymonds in St. John’s and silvermedal winner at the recent GoldMedal Plates Canadian Culinary Championships, wasn’t always rooted to his homeland. “I left when I was 19 to move to Montreal, where I ended up in culinary school,” the soft-spoken toque begins. “I spoke French, and I was eager to leave  St. John’s to travel and see what was out there.”

Shortly after graduating, the young cook began working under chef Claude Pelletier at the Mediterraneo (now The Med Grill), before moving to the Molson Fly Fishing Camp in Godbout, Que. The rugged post in the Canadian Shield was an unorthodox choice for an urban chef, but cooking for the Molson and Bronfman families led to an opportunity to become a private chef in Los Angeles and Chicago.

For the up-and-comer, cooking in culinary hotspots had its advantages, but eventually he began to feel the lure of home — and a desire for a new opportunity — pulling him back to Eastern Canada. “I totally missed home,” he recalls. “I missed fishing with my dad; I missed playing hockey.”

Upon his return, and much to his delight, Charles realized the quaint city he left was steadily morphing into a budding player on the culinary stage. “Things are changing there,” he says. “People are pushing the bar and demanding more quality food. It’s an exciting time to be in St. John’s.”

And, drawing on his many influences, Charles began to make his mark, joining the team as executive chef at Portugal Cove’s Atlantica restaurant in 2006.

While the move was certainly a good one, the transition from cooking for families to cooking for crowds was jarring. “It was a huge change,” says Charles. “The hours, the stress level, the pay. But it’s the life of a chef; you’re either on board or you’re not.”

Charles’ Atlantica menu, rich with local seafood and produce, was well-received, prompting En Route magazine to declare the seafood mecca Best New Restaurant in 2007.

Last year, however, Charles branched out on his own, opening Raymonds with business partner Jeremy Bonia in November. The restaurant, named after Charles’ grandfather and Bonia’s father, posed welcome challenges. “We did everything,” says Charles.“The floor plan, the refrigeration system, the decor; it was a lot of stress, but it was wonderful and exciting—a learning experience.”

The menu, filled with as much local fare as possible — which is challenging, given St. John’s icy winters — features Oyster Boy’s Oysters ($3 each), cod ($35) and an evolving seven-course ($95) tasting menu with a wine pairing ($70).

The owners’ restaurant philosophy is simple: celebrate Newfoundland’s food and culture, while respecting ingredients derived from the land. “Inspiration comes from the people I’ve worked with and the environment we work in,” sums up Charles .

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