By Denise Deveau
When And/Ore opened in December 2023, the odds should have been stacked against them. The rules say end of year is not the ideal time to launch a new concept. But the partners were never ones to follow the rules, says Abby Rubiales, general manager.
“We were nervous at first. No one wants to open a restaurant in December. But it turns out we were unbelievably busy from the minute we opened our doors. Everything was backwards but somehow turned out right.”
The Birth of a Concept
Rubiales is one of four female partners behind And/Ore — a rarity in the restaurant industry. Each brings a unique perspective to the business. Rubiales is a talented mixologist in addition to her management talents. Chef Missy Hui is a familiar face in culinary circles, having been a former executive chef with The McEwan Group, instructor at George Brown College and operator of Eat Kander catering and consulting. Director of Operations Kailey DeRubeis is a seasoned hospitality consultant, while Jamie Donovan is a former mining engineer.
It took two years for the team to move And/Ore from concept to reality. “It was just a twinkle in our eyes two years ago when we started talking about the prospect of working together,” says Hui. “We didn’t even know if it would be a restaurant. We were just getting to know each other.”
They settled on developing a restaurant concept that would play to their collective strengths and creative thinking. “We always knew once we saw a space we would attempt two concepts with different menus in one building,” says Hui, adding they found the perfect venue on Queen West near Dufferin in Toronto.
Upstairs/Downstairs
While the Above Ground restaurant creates an aura of “approachable luxury” as they call it, the Below Ground venue offers a more rustic, cave-like setting. Designers for the project include New Love Collective, Solid Design Creative and Garland Millwork.
“With Jamie’s mining background, we thought, wouldn’t it be hilarious to build a mine n the basement,” explains Hui. “We really enjoy the juxtaposition of the super ornate, elegant, pomp of the upstairs with the rustic space in the basement. It’s neat because diners can choose their own adventure.”
The 3,500-sq.-ft. main floor seats up to 90 guests in the main dining area, while a mezzanine area seats another 30. The space features a soaring ethereal hand-painted mural, antique mirrors and Victorian-inspired furnishings, creating an old-world garden-party atmosphere.
The 560-sq.-ft. Below Ground plays off light and shadow in a rough-hewn limestone setting, highlighted a by a neon rope strung across the ceiling inspired by a photo of a mine. There groups can enjoy a customized tasting or prix-fixe menu for intimate dinners, special occasion gathers, or weddings.
Something to Talk About
The And/Ore picnic-inspired menu and cocktails feature an eclectic range of sharing, tasting and snacking menus that reflect Hui’s and Rubiales’ love for creating unique tasting experiences that celebrate the creativity and diversity of modern Canadian cuisine. Samplings on the Above Ground menu include smoked lamb ribs with fish sauce and lime ($24); skirt steak with bitter greens and creamed onion ($29); and burnt cabbage with brown butter, togarashi and cashew ($12) — only a few examples within its extensive list of offerings. The snacking menu ranges from $7 to $16 or guests can choose a curated “Chef’s Picnic” for $60. Rubiales says the average guest check for Above Ground is $75 per person.
Below Ground, which has a higher check average at $200 per person, features a six-course tasting menu featuring seasonal ingredients. The tasting menu is offered at $150 per guest + tax and wine pairings are available for $80 + tax.
Its signature drinks have also taken social media by storm and have become a drawing card for even industry professionals. A runaway hit is its Gold Fashioned cocktail topped with a cloud of cotton candy. Rubiales says she created the sugary confection as a joke. “We quickly grew from making 15 or so to hundreds and had to buy a commercial cotton-candy machine to keep up. This was a one-off idea that photographed so well, it suddenly cemented our popularity.”
And/Ore’s menu offerings and the ambiance are so popular, the team has not had to put a nickel into marketing, says Rubiales. “We trusted in the idea that if we produced something magical — the organic growth will happen. The food and the place are so picturesque it speaks for itself.”
The People Factor
The partnership has played a big part in And/Ore’s success, she adds. “Combining expertise in the hospitality industry and the corporate world brings a unique perspective to running a successful business. It’s a great partnership because we respect that each of us is competent in our own field.
“We’re kind of a funny bunch,” she adds. “We love to make jokes and bounce ideas of each other and debate a lot about how restaurants work. Even when we have disagreements, we’re still okay at the end of the day.”
Now that they are beyond the honeymoon phase, the business is showing no signs of slowing down, in large part because of its appeal to a unusually broad demographic, from young foodies to retirees, from locals to tourists. “It feels like we’ve been running around with our heads cut off, but we’re always having a good time,” says Rubiales.
Transparency and taking care of their staff is a key priority. “One thing that sets us apart besides our space is that we have a team that supports each other,” says Hui. “We’ve managed to acquire some remarkable people to create an extremely welcoming environment. We lean in on our staff to bring others to recommend others. We believe that good people know other good people, so we haven’t had to do much rehiring.”
The restaurant not only provides benefits for staff, but it was also one of the first to sign with Atlas Direct Tips, a hospitality technology solution that automates tip division, distribution and compliance, she adds. “There are a lot of negative experiences hospitality ownership that have eliminated a lot of the trust. So we set out to be as transparent as possible.”
As for the menu, “We’re still defining what our cuisine is, defining ourselves as a country,” says Hui. “We’re trying to figure out who we are and where we want to be next year. One thing I do know, we are never doing lunches. There’s a lot to structuring of staffing to maintain work-life balance. Having regular days off is important for everyone.”
Going with the Flow
Rubiales says many things at And/Ore are still a work in progress — much like the industry itself. “There’s so much organic movement in hospitality. A restaurant is a living, breathing thing. You can plan for everything, but nothing ever goes to plan.”
Reflecting on the past few months, no one is more surprised by And/Ore’s runaway success than the owners. “We did everything wrong. We didn’t follow the rules,” says Rubiales. “We thought we would have to fight for it. But since cutting the red ribbon, we’ve never looked back.”
