By Morag McKenzie
Today’s global cuisine is a true fusion of flavours, textures, colours and ingredients from around the world, often combined in a single dish to create a unique, one-of-a-kind menu item.
“Across Canada, global cuisine has grown five per cent this year, with the greatest growth in Indian cuisine, followed by Southeast Asian (Thai, Korean and Vietnamese),” explains Vince Sgabellone, foodservice industry analyst at Toronto-based Circana, adding there are some regional differences with Southeast Asian followed by Mexican preferred in B.C. while Quebec diners prefer Italian and Ontario restaurant goers are split between Mexican, Indian and Italian cuisines.
Where global cuisine is offered has also evolved. “In 2022, the number of QSR restaurants serving global cuisine was up eight per cent, while the number of full-service restaurants serving the same was flat. However, we see growth in the total number of global-menu items served as almost every type of restaurant includes them on their menus,” adds Sgabellone.
However, the real growth, innovation and excitement in global cuisine is the merging of cuisines to create a unique fusion of flavour and dishes. “Chefs and food lovers from around the world come to Canada and bring their cuisine with them. They’re often taking their traditional dishes and adding flavours they’ve discovered from their own travels or experiences to elevate the flavours even more,” explains Jo-Ann founding partner and president of Toronto-based Nourish Food Marketing.
This growth is fuelled by many factors, including the increasing diversity, adventurous spirit and sophistication of Canadians palates in general. In addition, the continuing globalization of the food supply chain is providing greater availability and access to new foods, flavours, tastes, and seasonings. The return of worldwide travel is also driving culinary innovation, as both chefs and consumers strive to duplicate the flavours they enjoyed during their travels.
The Evolution of Fusion Cuisine
While we think of the blending of global cuisine as a new phenomenon, it actually dates back centuries.
“Most of the food as know it today was born out of fusion,” says Mary Freij, founder and owner of Teta’s Kitchen, a Middle-Eastern fusion restaurant in Toronto. “There were no tomatoes in Italy or potatoes in India. These now staple foods were brought to these countries by the Colonial British and early settlers. Most food we know of today is the result of some type of fusion”
While Canadians embrace global flavours, they also seek familiarity. “Restaurateurs are taking familiar menu items and adding a unique, global twist to introduce a new audience to them. Think butter chicken mac & cheese, sushi burritos or pho poutine,” explains McArthur.
Rasta Pasta is a fusion of traditional Jamaican and Italian foods (pasta, chicken et cetera) and global flavours and spices. Founders and co-owners Magnus Patterson and Mary Meglia launched Rasta Pasta in a food court in 2012, then seven months later moved to their current location in Toronto’s Kensington Market. In 2020, they expanded further, adding Rasta Bar and Lounge.
“The menu evolved as we added space, however, it has always been a fusion of Italian and Jamaican flavours and dishes. Some of our best dishes include our Grilled Jerk Chicken Panini ($10), Jamaican Mi Crazy Chicken ($10 to $17), and our Reggae Lasagna ($20).” All dishes are made from scratch in their kitchen by Italian and Jamaican chefs.
Growth Potential
While culinary innovation is exciting, it can also be expensive and risky. “For many reasons, including start-up costs, high rents- et cetera, many of the latest fusion restaurants are starting as food trucks or pop-ups. They’re also often featured as LTO’s (limited-time offers), particularly in QSR’s or casual-dining restaurants,” explains McArthur.
An excellent example of this is Nani’s Gelato, which started in Toronto as a food truck and has grown to four locations operating in the Greater Toronto Area, with plans to expand throughout the Golden Horseshoe in 2023-2024.
Founder and CEO Parry Sohi explains, “Food was always valued in my family, so I saw an opportunity to create a product that was a fusion of my own background and the amazing Italian flavours and frozen desserts I love to make.”
In 2018, Sohi couldn’t find a permanent location for his new business so converted a Dodge Sprinter Van into Nani’s Gelato Food Truck. “The menu and operating flexibility that a food truck gave me is one of the reasons for our success today. I was able to learn what areas and times of day have most demand, what flavours, portions, cones customers want and how to best operate my business.”
To keep the menu fresh and unique, Nani Gelato changes its lineup of eight or 12 flavours bi-weekly. “The only flavour we always feature is pistachio, as it’s a consistent favourite,” adds Sohi. Traditional Asian flavours (Vegan Saffron Cardamon Kulfi, Indian Chai), Italian (Straccietella, Italian Red Cherry) and local ingredients are always featured.
Nani Gelato uses social media to promote its products and stores. “We have found social media to be highly effective as customers look for their favourite flavours and then make a trip into our store.” While favourites rotate through its cabinet for cones ($7.25 including HST), they’re always available by pint ($11.99).
Fusion Born Through Travel
Other culinary fusion concepts are born through travel and life experiences. “While I was born in Dubai, I have travelled the world and experienced so many wonderful flavours. I’ve taken authentic dishes from Lebanon, Palestine and the Gulf Region and fused them with Asian and other flavours to create a Middle-Eastern fusion kitchen,” explains Freij.
Teta’s Kitchen is part of F.L.I.P. (Food Learning Innovation Place) Kitchens, a project of the City of Toronto. F.L.I.P Kitchens is a food hall that celebrates Toronto’s diverse culinary scene by helping aspiring entrepreneurs run their first brick-and-mortar location in the heart of the city.
Freji adds, “I love the authentic flavours of many Middle-Eastern items, but you can always add something new to create a unique and delicious item. One of our most popular dishes, Pandan Chicken Kebab ($10 to $15) uses Asian and Middle-Eastern herbs and spices to create a paste and then I grill the kebab in the Arabic manner.”
Always passionate about food, Freji moved to Canada six years ago. Also starting as a pop-up and then moving to a food stall, Tetas Kitchen continues to innovate. “I recently travelled to Bermuda and tasted a fish sandwich with raisin bread, to which I’ll add Arabic flavours to make it truly unique.”
Global Goes Local
Another cuisine which has become increasingly popular across Canada comes from the many nations and regions of Africa. “Ethiopian and Nigeran restaurants and foods have become increasingly innovative in recent years,” states McArthur.
Opened in 2017, Vancouver’s Arike Restaurant is a fusion of Nigerian and other African nations using ingredients sourced from the Pacific Northwest. Named after executive chef and co-owner Sam Olayinka’s Nigerian grandmother, it weaves together locally sourced ingredients with a broad range of global flavours.
Co-owners Mike Hayman and Jesse Gilmour met in culinary school in 2014 in Vancouver then pursued different career paths. After re-connecting and securing funding in 2017, they opened Arike, a casual dining, à la carte restaurant that mainly featured traditional Nigerian hand-held dishes. Just weeks before the pandemic, they converted to the current fine-dining tasting-menu concept with a menu that rotates every month.
In November 2022, Arike was awarded a Michelin star for its inventive cuisine and use of unique flavours and local ingredients.
“We are now on menu 23 of our six-course tasting menu ($75). Our menu has evolved, featuring everything Africa has to offer including Ethiopian, Moroccan, South African and European flavours. It’s just way more fun and better for the food to have no restrictions in where you look for inspiration,” adds Olayinka.
