By Robin Roberts
It was an idea born for a barn: Set your restaurant in the heart of an agricultural area, harvest the lovingly grown ingredients right outside the door, partner with like-minded local growers and producers, and blend that bounty into ever-evolving prix-fixe menu inspired by seasonal French cooking. Then, pair that fine fare with vintages from your own onsite winery, along with select international bottles from producers who share the same passion and care. Now, serve it all to discerning diners seated atop said (converted) barn, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the surrounding vineyards, gardens and peach orchard, and you have a recipe for success.
And not just minor success. Restaurant Pearl Morissette, Foodservice and Hospitality magazine’s winner of the Pinnacle Award for Independent Restaurateur of the Year, has garnered major plaudits from notable publications such as Bon Appetit, Toronto Life, Air Canada’s enRoute, the Globe & Mail and Maclean’s Magazine, as well as landing on numerous “Best Of” lists. Quite the feat for an eatery located way out in the countryside, in Ontario’s bucolic Niagara region.
How do the proprietors maintain such high standards and attract devoted diners (and staff) far from city streets? It all flows from the capable hands of co-owners and co-chefs Daniel Hadida and Eric Robertson, two Ontarians who first worked in restaurants in Toronto then honed their craft in European Michelin-starred kitchens. It was, in fact, Hadida’s idea to open the 38-seat restaurant in the middle of the 42-acre organic farm and winery in small-town Jordan six years ago.
Named after managing partners Francois Morissette, the restaurant and winery’s vigneron, and Mel Pearl, a Toronto real-estate developer, “Pearl Morissette sets itself apart through the use of regional ingredients, relationships with growers, and a team culture focused on personal and professional growth,” explains Hadida. “[We] seek to farm simply, connect meaningfully, share abundantly, and preserve for generations. We believe that to do that well requires harmony amongst all parts of the business.”
Robertson says the team enjoys passing on that harmony — and passion for the foods they prepare — to the diners they serve. “We connect our guests to nature and regenerative farming through education, curiosity, and a commitment to uncompromising excellence,” he says. “I want to create an escape for people, even if it’s for only a few hours.”
The chefs are bound to freshness by being bound to each season’s bounty, and by maintaining relationships with local farmers, foragers, ranchers and producers. “We’re always on the lookout for different producers that have values in line with our own,” says Hadida. “We talk to other chefs and growers, scour social media, explore farm markets, and order seeds and plants to grow at the onsite farm and garden.”
Robertson adds that the mutually respectful nature of the relationships they’ve cultivated and the quality of the ingredients keep them inspired and motivated. “Coffee also helps with the creative process,” he quips.
The eight-course tasting menu is $176 per person, or for $250 per person guests can enjoy 15 courses at a private chef’s table, which can include West Coast clams, Newfoundland sea urchins, Cornish hen cooked over a fire of peach wood from the orchard, and Bosc pear tarts with malted barley. But the menu is always changing, so you may or may not get any of these since they’re always creating something new.
As for the dishes they look forward to creating most, Hadida says that, because the menu is always changing, there is not a lot of room for favourites. “That said, I really enjoy cooking joints of meat slowly over fire and sauce making. I also love to decorate cakes.”
Robertson simply enjoys cooking with the seasons. “You have the build-up of anticipation [for] the best tomatoes, peaches, asparagus or shellfish each year. I just love getting things at their peak.”
And having access to an established, world-renowned wine cellar, opened in 2008, upon which the restaurant’s values and respect for the land is based, is a bonus. “This is a shared inspiration and the savoury and aromatic wines pair wonderfully with food,” says Hadida. “We are lucky to get access to a wide range of Cuvees, including some rare and old vintages that are only served at the restaurant.”
During the pandemic, Hadida says their immediate focus was to continue supporting farmers by purchasing whatever they could. In an effort to get healthy food to people who were housebound, they experimented with a delivery grocer service that included simple make-at-home menus. And, during the warmer months, they opened an outdoor restaurant called Le Pré, which helped them through those uncertain times.
“We created an outdoor space that was true to the spirit of Pearl Morissette pre-pandemic which, through its challenges, continued to feel like we were still doing ‘our thing’ through it all,” says Robertson. “We had pride in creating experiences for guests at a high level, even when our backs were against
the wall.”
Creating those experiences relies on being on the same wavelength, hard-working staff to maintain the restaurant’s high standards and excellent reputation. It’s important to both Hadida and Robertson to attract — and retain — the best employees. “We find that team players with ambition and communication skills tend to be the most successful,” says Hadida. “A competitive spirit helps to cement purpose during challenging times. Curiosity towards nature is an important attribute as people develop into more senior roles.”
He acknowledges the restaurant’s isolated location can be a challenge to attract staff. “We maintain relationships with a number of learning institutions and have also run an internship program. Maintaining a media presence and a reputation for excellence create a valuable standard for prospective team members.”
As of this September, the restaurant has implemented an 18 per cent service charge to all meals. In order to help employees maintain a life-work balance, the restaurant is only open for dinner Thursday to Sunday and lunch on Saturday (noon to 1:30). They offer staff extended health benefits, which include dental, vision and mental-health services, two weeks paid vacation per year, GRSP with two per cent matched contributions, continued professional education and team outings, produce and wine allowance, dining discounts and transportation assistance.
“It’s fundamental to the business to be a learning environment. We make sure to communicate that well any chance we get,” says Hadida.
When not running the restaurant, the two chefs devote much of their time to a few special charities and organizations. For many years, the restaurant has supported Gillian’s Place, one of the oldest shelters in the country, which provides support, counsel, and transitional housing to those facing abuse. They also work with local migrant-worker organizations to provide food directly to farm workers. “Being an active and responsible member of our local community is fundamental to our success as a business,” says Hadida.
That success has translated into numerous kudos inside and outside the industry, which might easily swell heads. Not for these two. “Awards and accolades are great for business, for attracting staff and keeping motivated during the daily grind of running a business,” says Robertson. “We try and experiment a lot, [but we] fail a lot as well. It keeps you humble.”
Adds Hadida, “To run a hospitality business well requires modesty. Through honesty and communication with ourselves and the community, we maintain a sense of place and purpose.”
And for this particular recognition as recipients of the Pinnacle Award, Hadida says, “Love and respect to all of the growers, small restaurants, and those seeking to push their world into a more harmonious and inclusive place.”
Robertson adds, “Thank you to everyone who makes this crazy restaurant work every day.”
